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Spotted Marsh Frog Care Sheet
SPOTTED MARSH FROG (Limnodynastes tasmaniensis)
The Spotted Marsh Frog is found throughout New South Wales, Victoria, eastern South Australia, most of Queensland and eastern Tasmania.
Spotted Marsh Frogs reach an adult size of 40-50mm and live in excess of 5 years. Spotted Marsh Frogs are regularly bred in captivity and represent two of the most readily and commonly kept species. The following information should help you learn how to care for your Spotted Marsh Frog.
Many different enclosures can be used to house Spotted Marsh Frogs as long as they are water proof, escape proof and non toxic. Our Exo Terra range of terrariums and our budget terrarium range are ideal as they are water tight and well ventilated. They prefer to hang aroung in the moist substrate so height is not a major housing requirement. An enclosure 45cm or larger would be most suitable. The bottom of the tank should be moist and or have a good water supply.
Temperature / Heating
Spotted Marsh Frogs should be kept indoors to protect them from the exposure of extreme temperatures. No heating is required for this frog but can be added if temperatures fall below 10 Celsius. Ideal temperature range for this particular species of frog is a minimum of 10 Celsius and a maximum of 25 Celsius.
Spotted Marsh Frogs are nocturnal in the wild but can be quite active during the day in captivity. No UVB lighting is required but you will require one if you want to keep live plants in your terrarium. An 8 hour light cycle is recommended.
Maintaining water quality is an important part of keeping your frogs healthy. Chlorine will need to be removed from your tap water and the best way is with some Repti Safe. Your water should be changed regularly which will depend on how much water you have and how many frogs you have. A small filter, running water and some aquatic plants will all help to keep your water clean. Only change up to 50% of the total water volume at any one time and do not use hot water from the tap. Although Frogs can easily climb glass, it is important to provide numerous escapes from the water especially in t he corners where young frogs tend to get trapped. Small frogs are often too weak to break the surface tension of the water when they have nothing but slippery glass to cling to. Part of or all of your tank may be covered in water.
In nature most frogs are almost totally insectivorous. In captivity the tendency to use substitute foods is one which must be avoided. The most common dietary problems seen in frogs are related to lack of calcium or too much protein in the diet. Calcium powders are available from o ur store and should be mixed in equal quantities with a multivitamin powder then dusted on food before feeding. Place your food insects in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/multivitamin powder and shake it till the food is well coated. By doing this about 1/2 the times you feed your frogs, calcium deficiency will be avoided. Feed your frog a variety of insects and invertebrates and you should have few diet related problems. Juveniles will happily eat flies, moths, small crickets and cockroaches, and should have food available to them AT ALL TIMES. Adults will eat almost anything that moves and fits in their mouth, they should be offered about 10-20% of their own body size in food spread over 2-3 feeds each week. During winter or when your tank temperatures are reduced your frogs will need less food. It is important to increase and reduce food in both quantity and frequency with the changing temperatures of your enclosure. Remove drowned insects so as not to foul the water, or feed your frogs individually by holding the insects on some feeding tongs.